St Abbs & St Abb's Head

Photography: Mick Knapton / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)
At St Abbs, life on the coast happens above and below the water: walkers on the cliffs, boats in the harbour and divers exploring one of Scotland's best-known marine environments.
The cliffs of St Abb's Head are internationally important for seabirds, and the National Nature Reserve attracts walkers along a coastline shaped by hard volcanic rock and constant erosion. Below the surface, the St Abbs and Eyemouth Voluntary Marine Reserve protects reef communities and striking underwater topography. The area has become nationally important for scuba diving as well as wildlife and coastal tourism. The village keeps that marine relationship human. Harbour, lifeboat, fishing history and the people who know this coast belong beside the conservation story. St Abbs has maintained its own independent lifeboat service since the community campaign that followed the closure of the former RNLI station. It gives the Collection a coast that is neither simply scenic nor purely natural. People work beside it, walk above it, dive into it and continue to organise around the risks of living beside the North Sea.
From the village, look at how tightly harbour, houses and rising ground fit together. Then climb towards the Head and watch the scale open out. The coast has two very different faces. Above water you see cliffs, lighthouse and seabird colonies. Underneath is another landscape of rock, reefs and marine life that has helped make St Abbs a destination for divers.
The postcard view of St Abbs is real, but what I like is that it still feels like a working place. It has had its moment on screen, but the harbour, houses and coast still belong together. It is also quieter than many of Scotland's better-known coastal stops. I enjoy that about it.
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